{"title":"Shrimp","description":"","products":[{"product_id":"amano-shrimp","title":"Amano Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eAmano Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAmano Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina multidentata\u003c\/em\u003e) is the single most famous algae-eating shrimp in the aquarium hobby. Made famous by legendary aquascaper Takashi Amano, who used them by the hundreds to keep his planted tanks immaculate, this species has become the go-to algae control tool for planted aquariums worldwide. Translucent grey-blue with a broken line of small reddish-brown dots along the sides, Amano Shrimp grow noticeably larger than Neocaridina or Caridina dwarf shrimp — reaching up to 2 inches, making them one of the largest true shrimp regularly kept in freshwater tanks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAmano Shrimp are primarily \u003cstrong\u003ealgae and biofilm grazers\u003c\/strong\u003e rather than general scavengers — they are famous for eating types of algae that almost nothing else in the hobby will touch, including hair algae, thread algae, and beard algae. A group of Amanos working a planted tank is one of the most effective natural algae control methods available, and this is the primary reason hobbyists keep them. Unlike Neocaridina and Caridina shrimp, Amanos cannot reproduce in freshwater — their larvae require brackish or saltwater to develop, so there is zero risk of an Amano population explosion in a home aquarium. Every Amano Shrimp sold in the hobby is either wild-caught or raised through a brackish-water breeding process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e Amano Shrimp are algae feeders first — in a tank with healthy algae and biofilm growth, they will spend most of their day grazing and need very little supplemental feeding. Use food as a \u003cstrong\u003esupplement, not a primary food source\u003c\/strong\u003e. When algae is scarce, or to keep a group well-conditioned, offer \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e a few times per week, and a light dusting of \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e to help build biofilm on surfaces. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e support healthy molting and should be offered periodically, especially in softer water.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAmano Shrimp are completely peaceful and make excellent additions to community planted tanks, shrimp colonies, and aquascapes of all kinds. They are more tolerant of a range of water parameters than Caridina cf. cantonensis varieties (like Crystal Reds or Taiwan Bees), making them a forgiving, low-maintenance choice for hobbyists who want effective algae control without the sensitivity of fancier shrimp. They will not interbreed with Neocaridina or Caridina dwarf shrimp and will not eat shrimp fry, so they are safe to keep alongside breeding colonies. Avoid housing them with aggressive or large fish that may see them as food, and use caution with bettas, as individual temperament varies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for several hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; Amanos will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable water parameters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eAmano Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish and other dwarf shrimp\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUp to 2 inches (5 cm) — among the largest shrimp commonly kept in freshwater\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6 minimum — Amanos are social and do best in groups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1 per 2–3 gallons for effective algae control\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–78°F (21–26°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–14 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–10 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–300\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePrimary Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAlgae and biofilm (natural grazing) — the primary food source\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplemental Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eJapan, Taiwan, and the Korean Peninsula\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cannot reproduce in freshwater — larvae require brackish water, so no population control needed\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Best known for eating hair, thread, and beard algae that most other species ignore\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Will not eat shrimp fry — safe with breeding Neocaridina\/Caridina colonies\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Medium","offer_id":50873572819255,"sku":"Caridina multidentata","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Jumbo","offer_id":50873572852023,"sku":"Caridina multidentata","price":8.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-medium-amano-shrimp-37725136978231.jpg?v=1778253136"},{"product_id":"vampire-shrimp","title":"Vampire Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eVampire Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eVampire Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eAtya gabonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) is a striking blue-grey to purple filter-feeding giant from the rivers of West Africa — a completely different part of the world from most freshwater shrimp in the hobby, which are typically sourced from Southeast Asia. Despite the dramatic name, Vampire Shrimp are entirely harmless filter feeders that pose no threat to tankmates. They use the same fan-like front appendages as the Bamboo Shrimp to catch suspended particles drifting through the water column, and they grow to a substantial 3 inches, making them one of the more visually impressive invertebrates available for a freshwater aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Flow Requirement:\u003c\/strong\u003e Vampire Shrimp \u003cstrong\u003emust\u003c\/strong\u003e have a steady current directed toward their chosen perch — without it, they cannot catch enough food and will slowly starve even in a tank with plenty of food in the water column. Position a filter outlet, powerhead, or airstone so a consistent flow passes over a perch (driftwood, rock, or plant stem) where the shrimp can post up and filter feed.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e As a true filter feeder, the Vampire Shrimp cannot eat standard pellet or wafer foods dropped on the substrate — it needs fine particles suspended in the water column where its fans can catch them. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are ideal — both create a cloud of micro-particles in the current that the shrimp will actively filter feed on. Dose these near the flow source the shrimp is using rather than across the whole tank for the best feeding response.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eVampire Shrimp are completely peaceful, shy, and spend much of their time tucked into hiding spots near a current, emerging to post up and filter feed when conditions are right. Like the Bamboo Shrimp, they do best in established, mature aquariums — a brand new tank simply does not have enough suspended organic particulate to sustain a filter feeder, so wait until a tank has been running and planted for some time before adding one. They are highly social with other filter feeders and will often be found sharing the same current alongside Bamboo Shrimp and Thai Micro Crabs, all of which have identical flow and feeding requirements. Avoid keeping them with aggressive or large fish, and provide secure hiding spots near the flow they prefer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLike all shrimp, Vampire Shrimp cannot reproduce in freshwater — their larvae require brackish water to develop, so there is no risk of unwanted population growth in a home aquarium. Molting is the most vulnerable period in their life cycle; do not remove molted shells, as the shrimp will consume them to reclaim minerals. Keep ammonia and nitrite at zero at all times, as this species is particularly sensitive to poor water quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eVampire Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — specific flow and feeding needs\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful, shy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUp to 3 inches (7.6 cm), occasionally larger under ideal conditions\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eCan be kept singly or in small groups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1 per 20 gallons of established, planted aquarium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e74–82°F (23–28°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDiet\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFilter feeder — suspended micro-particles only, not substrate foods\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (dosed near flow)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eWest Africa — rivers of Ghana, Cameroon, and surrounding countries\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFlow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Requires steady current directed at its perch to filter feed successfully\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/strong\u003e Needs an established, mature aquarium with adequate suspended particulate\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cannot reproduce in freshwater\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Quality:\u003c\/strong\u003e Highly sensitive to ammonia\/nitrite — keep at zero\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Pairs well with Bamboo Shrimp and Thai Micro Crabs (same flow\/feeding needs)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011245912375,"sku":"Atya gabonensis","price":30.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-vampire-shrimp-37876570980663.jpg?v=1778253136"},{"product_id":"black-cherry-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Black Cherry Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Cherry Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Cherry Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a deep black to very dark brown coloration — the black equivalent of the Cherry Red grade, with some translucency visible through the darker body coloration. A striking, dramatic color form.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Cherry Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011245977911,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":0.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"black-choco-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Black Choco Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Choco Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Choco Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a rich chocolate-black coloration — the Choco name capturing the warm, brown-toned quality of this particular black expression, which has a warmer undertone than the cooler pure-black varieties.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Choco Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011246076215,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":0.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"black-rili-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Black Rili Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays the Rili pattern in black — deep black at the head and tail sections with a transparent midsection creating a high-contrast graphic pattern. The stark black end-caps against the clear midsection is one of the most dramatic Rili color expressions. The Rili pattern is a specific color expression in which the coloration is concentrated at the head and tail sections, with a transparent or near-transparent midsection — creating a distinctive two-tone banded effect that makes the shrimp appear to be divided into colored end-caps with a clear window in between.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011246207287,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"black-sakura-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Black Sakura Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Sakura Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Sakura Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) is a mid-to-high grade black Neocaridina — a deep, more opaque black than the Black Cherry, with stronger color coverage across the body. The Sakura designation indicates improved color quality and depth compared to the base Cherry grade.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Sakura Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011246272823,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":0.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"bloody-mary-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Bloody Mary Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBloody Mary Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBloody Mary Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) represents the pinnacle of red Neocaridina color development — a deep, opaque, almost blood-red coloration that covers the entire body with minimal transparency. The Bloody Mary grade produces some of the most intensely colored red shrimp available at any price point. The deep red is particularly vivid against green plants and dark substrate.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBloody Mary Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51041714798903,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":7.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-bloody-mary-neocaridina-shrimp-43145245131063.png?v=1778253135"},{"product_id":"blue-cherry-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Blue Cherry Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlue Cherry Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlue Cherry Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a lighter, more translucent blue — the blue equivalent of the Cherry Red grade, with some transparency visible through the body. A softer, more delicate blue than the Blue Velvet or Blue Diamond.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlue Cherry Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011246403895,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":0.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"blue-diamond-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Blue Diamond Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlue Diamond Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlue Diamond Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a deep, vivid blue with a jewel-like intensity — the Diamond designation reflecting a particularly saturated, high-grade blue expression. A bold, striking shrimp with strong visual impact in any planted aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlue Diamond Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011246436663,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"blue-pearl-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Blue Pearl Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlue Pearl Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlue Pearl Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a pale, pearlescent blue-white — a soft, luminous coloration with a subtle blue sheen over a near-white body. The Pearl quality refers to the gentle iridescent quality of the blue rather than a solid, saturated color.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlue Pearl Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011246567735,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":0.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"blue-rili-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Blue Rili Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlue Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlue Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays the Rili pattern in blue — vivid blue at the head and tail sections with a transparent midsection. The blue end-caps against the clear midsection create a crisp, graphic pattern. The Rili pattern is a specific color expression in which the coloration is concentrated at the head and tail sections, with a transparent or near-transparent midsection — creating a distinctive two-tone banded effect that makes the shrimp appear to be divided into colored end-caps with a clear window in between.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlue Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011246633271,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-blue-rili-neocaridina-shrimp-43145228845367.png?v=1778253138"},{"product_id":"blue-velvet-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Blue Velvet Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlue Velvet Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlue Velvet Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) is the most popular and widely kept blue Neocaridina — a deep, rich blue with a velvety, opaque quality that covers the entire body. The Blue Velvet is the blue equivalent of the Fire Red — a high-grade, deeply saturated color expression that is one of the most striking color forms in the Neocaridina lineup.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlue Velvet Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51041726136631,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-blue-velvet-neocaridina-shrimp-41081342427447.jpg?v=1778253140"},{"product_id":"blue-carbon-rili-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Blue Carbon Rili Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlue Carbon Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlue Carbon Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) is a high-contrast Rili variant — the Carbon designation indicating a particularly dark, near-black version of the blue Rili pattern. The very dark blue to charcoal end-caps against the transparent midsection create an exceptionally bold graphic pattern. The Rili pattern is a specific color expression in which the coloration is concentrated at the head and tail sections, with a transparent or near-transparent midsection — creating a distinctive two-tone banded effect that makes the shrimp appear to be divided into colored end-caps with a clear window in between.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlue Carbon Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51041738850615,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-blue-carbon-rili-neocaridina-shrimp-43145217605943.png?v=1778253141"},{"product_id":"cherry-red-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Cherry Red Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eCherry Red Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCherry Red Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) is the original and most widely known red Neocaridina — the color form that introduced the hobby to the concept of selectively bred shrimp color varieties. Cherry Reds display red coloration with some degree of transparency visible through the body — a lower grade of red expression than Fire Red, Sakura, or Bloody Mary. By today's standards, Cherry Red is the entry-level grade of red Neocaridina; the deeper, more opaque reds available in higher grades are significantly more striking. Cherry Reds remain popular for beginners and for tanks where shrimp will be used as feeders or cleanup crew.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eCherry Red Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011247059255,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":5.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"orange-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Orange Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eOrange Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrange Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a clean, mid-range orange coloration — a straightforward, vivid orange that sits in the center of the orange Neocaridina range. A bright, cheerful color form that is immediately attractive in any planted aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eOrange Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011247288631,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":10.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"orange-rili-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Orange Rili Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eOrange Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrange Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays the Rili pattern in orange — vivid orange at the head and tail with a transparent midsection creating the distinctive banded two-tone effect. The warm orange end-caps against the clear midsection create a particularly bright and eye-catching pattern. The Rili pattern is a specific color expression in which the coloration is concentrated at the head and tail sections, with a transparent or near-transparent midsection — creating a distinctive two-tone banded effect that makes the shrimp appear to be divided into colored end-caps with a clear window in between.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eOrange Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51041736622391,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-orange-rili-neocaridina-shrimp-43145289695543.png?v=1778253144"},{"product_id":"red-rili-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Red Rili Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays the Rili pattern in red — vivid red at the head and tail sections with a transparent midsection creating the distinctive two-tone banded effect. The red end-caps against the clear midsection create a graphic, eye-catching pattern unlike solid-color varieties. The Rili pattern is a specific color expression in which the coloration is concentrated at the head and tail sections, with a transparent or near-transparent midsection — creating a distinctive two-tone banded effect that makes the shrimp appear to be divided into colored end-caps with a clear window in between.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51041735639351,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-red-rili-neocaridina-shrimp-41088936018231.jpg?v=1778253149"},{"product_id":"red-sakura-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Red Sakura Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Sakura Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Sakura Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) sits between Cherry Red and Fire Red in the red Neocaridina grade spectrum — named for the soft, warm pink-red of the Japanese cherry blossom. Sakura displays a warm, slightly pink-toned red that is more vivid than Cherry but warmer and slightly less intense than Fire Red. A popular mid-grade red with a distinctive warm tone.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Sakura Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011247518007,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":10.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"yellow-fire-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Yellow Fire Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eYellow Fire Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eYellow Fire Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) is a high-grade yellow Neocaridina — a deeply saturated, vivid yellow with strong opacity and intensity across the entire body. The Fire designation indicates the same high-grade color intensity as Fire Red but in yellow — a bold, electric yellow that stands out dramatically against dark substrate or green plants.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eYellow Fire Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011247583543,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"yellow-rili-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Yellow Rili Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eYellow Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eYellow Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays the Rili pattern in yellow — vivid yellow at the head and tail sections with a transparent midsection. The yellow end-caps against the clear midsection create a bright, graphic pattern. The Rili pattern is a specific color expression in which the coloration is concentrated at the head and tail sections, with a transparent or near-transparent midsection — creating a distinctive two-tone banded effect that makes the shrimp appear to be divided into colored end-caps with a clear window in between.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eYellow Rili Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011247616311,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":0.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"black-bee-caridina-shrimp","title":"Black Bee Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) displays alternating black and white bee banding — the black counterpart to the Red Bee, with deep black replacing the red zones against clean white banding. One of the most classic Caridina patterns.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011247845687,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":10.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}]},{"product_id":"black-crystal-caridina-shrimp","title":"Black Crystal Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) is the black-bodied counterpart to the Crystal Red — the same red zones replaced with deep black while the white banding remains clean and well-defined. Black Crystal shrimp carry the same grading system (C through SSS) based on the proportion and quality of white coverage. The high-contrast black and white pattern is striking and elegant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Single","offer_id":51041745338679,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":8.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"5pk","offer_id":51041745371447,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":40.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-single-black-crystal-caridina-shrimp-43140787405111.png?v=1778253167"},{"product_id":"black-moshura-caridina-shrimp","title":"Black Moshura Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Moshura Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Mosura Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) displays the Mosura pattern in black — white head cap and white tail with a deep black body band between them. The three-part symmetrical arrangement of white-black-white is crisp and elegant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Moshura Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011247976759,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":0.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"black-tiger-caridina-shrimp","title":"Black Tiger Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) displays alternating deep black and transparent striping — the classic tiger banding in black. The black tiger pattern is the most recognizable \u003cem\u003eC. mariae\u003c\/em\u003e expression and has been the foundation for many advanced hybrid patterns.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.25 inches (2.5–3 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.0\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–8 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1–4 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStreams of Hong Kong and southern China\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed recommended\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248042295,"sku":"Caridina Mariae","price":0.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"black-tiger-fancy-caridina-shrimp","title":"Black Tiger Fancy Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Tiger Fancy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Tiger Fancy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) is an enhanced Black Tiger — the 'Fancy' designation indicating above-average color intensity, banding definition, or additional color elements beyond the standard black and clear tiger pattern.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Tiger Fancy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.25 inches (2.5–3 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.0\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–8 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1–4 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStreams of Hong Kong and southern China\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed recommended\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248107831,"sku":"Caridina Mariae","price":13.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-black-tiger-fancy-cardina-shrimp-43690943021367.png?v=1778253151"},{"product_id":"golden-bee-caridina-shrimp","title":"Golden Bee Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eGolden Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGolden Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) displays a warm golden-yellow to amber body with white banding — a color variant of the bee pattern in which warm gold replaces the standard red or black. The golden and white combination is unusual and attractive.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eGolden Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248140599,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":0.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"hinomaru-caridina-shrimp","title":"Hinomaru Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eHinomaru Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHinomaru Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) takes its name from the Japanese flag — \u003cem\u003eHinomaru\u003c\/em\u003e meaning 'circle of the sun.' The pattern features a distinctive red circle or dot marking on an otherwise white body, directly referencing the red circle on the Japanese national flag. A clean, graphic, and culturally resonant pattern.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eHinomaru Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248271671,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":14.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}]},{"product_id":"pure-black-crystal-caridina-shrimp","title":"Pure Black Crystal Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003ePure Black Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePure Black Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) is a selectively refined Black Crystal line bred for clarity and purity of the black and white banding — clean color separation and consistent pattern quality across the line. The 'Pure' designation indicates a higher standard of pattern consistency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003ePure Black Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248337207,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":12.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-pure-black-crystal-cardina-shrimp-41090530541879.png?v=1778253169"},{"product_id":"pure-red-crystal-caridina-shrimp","title":"Pure Red Crystal Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003ePure Red Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePure Red Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) represents a selectively refined line of Crystal Red — bred specifically for clarity and purity of the red and white banding, with well-defined, clean color separation between the red and white zones. The 'Pure' designation indicates a higher standard of pattern consistency within the line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003ePure Red Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248369975,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":12.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-pure-red-crystal-caridina-shrimp-41090583003447.jpg?v=1778253154"},{"product_id":"raccoon-tiger-caridina-shrimp","title":"Raccoon Tiger Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRaccoon Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRaccoon Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a distinctive Raccoon pattern — dark facial or head markings combined with tiger body banding that together recall the characteristic masked face of a raccoon. A particularly interesting and distinctive expression of the \u003cem\u003eC. mariae\u003c\/em\u003e pattern range.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRaccoon Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.25 inches (2.5–3 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.0\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–8 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1–4 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStreams of Hong Kong and southern China\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed recommended\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248468279,"sku":"Caridina Mariae","price":0.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"red-bee-caridina-shrimp","title":"Red Bee Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) displays the classic red and white bee banding — alternating red and white stripes running across the body in a clean, graphic pattern. A foundational Caridina pattern closely related to the Crystal Red line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248566583,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":10.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}]},{"product_id":"red-crystal-caridina-shrimp","title":"Red Crystal Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) is one of the foundational varieties of the Caridina hobby — descended from the original Crystal Red mutation discovered by Hisayasu Suzuki in 1996. The classic red and white banded pattern is graded from C (least white) through B, A, S, SS, to SSS (most white). Red Crystal shrimp remain one of the most elegant and sought-after patterns in the hobby.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Single","offer_id":51041743044919,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":8.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"5pk","offer_id":51041743077687,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":40.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-single-red-crystal-cardina-shrimp-43141448761655.png?v=1778253152"},{"product_id":"red-mosura-caridina-shrimp","title":"Red Mosura Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Mosura Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Mosura Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) displays the Mosura pattern in red — the Mosura being a high-white expression where the white head cap (covering the entire head area) and white tail create a distinctive three-part color arrangement: white head, red body band, white tail. An elegant, symmetrical pattern.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Mosura Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248697655,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":0.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"red-tiger-caridina-shrimp","title":"Red Tiger Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) displays alternating red and transparent striping across the body — the tiger-like banding running vertically across the width of the shrimp in vivid red. \u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e is a distinct species from the Taiwan Bee complex, native to streams of Hong Kong and southern China, with slightly different ideal parameters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.25 inches (2.5–3 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.0\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–8 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1–4 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStreams of Hong Kong and southern China\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed recommended\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248763191,"sku":"Caridina Mariae","price":0.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"white-bee-caridina-shrimp","title":"White Bee Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eWhite Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhite Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) displays a near-white to pale cream body with reduced or minimal dark banding — a high-white expression of the bee pattern that produces an elegant, almost entirely white shrimp. One of the more unusual and sought-after bee pattern expressions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eWhite Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011249058103,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":0.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"bamboo-shrimp","title":"Bamboo Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBamboo Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBamboo Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eAtyopsis moluccensis\u003c\/em\u003e) is a striking and completely unique filter-feeding shrimp from the fast-flowing rivers of Southeast Asia. Unlike every other shrimp on this list, the Bamboo Shrimp does not graze the substrate or pick at biofilm — instead, it opens its fan-like front appendages directly into the water current to catch suspended food particles drifting by. Watching a Bamboo Shrimp perch in a current with its fans fully extended is one of the most fascinating behaviors in the freshwater hobby. Reddish-brown with subtle striping, these shrimp grow to an impressive 3 inches, making them one of the larger invertebrates commonly kept in home aquariums.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Flow Requirement:\u003c\/strong\u003e Bamboo Shrimp \u003cstrong\u003emust\u003c\/strong\u003e have a steady current directed toward their chosen perch — without it, they cannot catch enough food and will slowly starve even in a tank with plenty of food in the water column. Position a filter outlet, powerhead, or airstone so a consistent flow passes over a perch (driftwood, rock, or plant stem) where the shrimp can post up and filter feed.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e As a true filter feeder, the Bamboo Shrimp cannot eat standard pellet or wafer foods dropped on the substrate — it needs fine particles suspended in the water column where its fans can catch them. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are ideal — both create a cloud of micro-particles in the current that the shrimp will actively filter feed on. Dose these near the flow source the shrimp is using rather than across the whole tank for the best feeding response.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eBamboo Shrimp are completely peaceful and spend much of their time stationary at their chosen perch, occasionally repositioning to find better flow. They do best in established, mature aquariums — a brand new tank simply does not have enough suspended organic particulate matter to sustain a filter feeder, so wait until a tank has been running and planted for some time before adding one. They pair particularly well with other filter feeders like Vampire Shrimp and Thai Micro Crabs, all of which share the same flow and feeding requirements and will often be found posted up near the same current. Avoid keeping Bamboo Shrimp with aggressive or large fish, and provide secure hiding spots near the flow they prefer.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLike all shrimp, Bamboo Shrimp cannot reproduce in freshwater — their larvae require brackish water to develop, so there is no risk of unwanted population growth in a home aquarium. Molting is the most vulnerable period in their life cycle; do not remove molted shells, as the shrimp will consume them to reclaim minerals. Sudden temperature swings are particularly hard on this species, so a stable, reliable heater is essential.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBamboo Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — specific flow and feeding needs\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUp to 3 inches (7.6 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eCan be kept singly or in small groups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1 per 20 gallons of established, planted aquarium\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e73–80°F (23–27°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDiet\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFilter feeder — suspended micro-particles only, not substrate foods\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (dosed near flow)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSoutheast Asia — fast-flowing rivers and streams\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFlow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Requires steady current directed at its perch to filter feed successfully\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/strong\u003e Needs an established, mature aquarium with adequate suspended particulate\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cannot reproduce in freshwater\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTemperature Stability:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sensitive to sudden swings — use a reliable heater\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Pairs well with Vampire Shrimp and Thai Micro Crabs (same flow\/feeding needs)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48692401111351,"sku":"Atyopsis moluccensis","price":20.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-bamboo-shrimp-39187871990071.jpg?v=1778253284"},{"product_id":"yellow-golden-back-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Yellow\/Golden Back Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eYellow\/Golden Back Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eYellow\/Golden Back Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a distinctive yellow to golden coloration concentrated along the dorsal stripe — the 'golden back' referring to the vivid yellow or gold running along the top of the body, with a lighter or more translucent underside. The dorsal stripe coloration creates a distinctive two-tone effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eYellow\/Golden Back Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48753587618103,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":8.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"blue-bolt-caridina-shrimp","title":"Blue Bolt Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlue Bolt Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlue Bolt Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) is one of the most striking Caridina available — a vivid, deep blue to blue-black body with clean white markings. The Blue Bolt is a Taiwan Bee variety selected for intense blue coloration, and high-grade specimens display a remarkable electric blue that is unlike any other freshwater shrimp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlue Bolt Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48909669826871,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":12.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"red-pinto-caridina-shrimp","title":"Red Pinto Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Pinto Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Pinto Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) displays the Pinto pattern in red — an irregular, high-contrast distribution of red and white in which the white forms large, bold patches rather than the regular banding of Crystal shrimp. The Pinto pattern is named for the pinto horse's irregular two-tone coat. No two Pinto shrimp are identical.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Pinto Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48909685686583,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":12.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"green-jade-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Green Jade Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eGreen Jade Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGreen Jade Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a soft jade green — a cool, semi-translucent green with a gem-like quality that the jade name captures well. The coloration has a slightly blue-green tint that distinguishes it from the warmer, more opaque Green Diamond.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eGreen Jade Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48909690896695,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"24k-yellow-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"24k Yellow Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003e24k Yellow Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e24k Yellow Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) is named for the warm, metallic gold-yellow quality of the coloration — a rich, saturated yellow that catches light with a warm golden quality reminiscent of 24-karat gold. One of the most vivid and premium yellow Neocaridina available.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003e24k Yellow Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51041732395319,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-24k-yellow-neocaridina-shrimp-43145265152311.png?v=1778253333"},{"product_id":"sunkist-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Sunkist Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eSunkist Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSunkist Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a vivid, saturated orange coloration — the Sunkist name perfectly capturing the warm, bright citrus-orange that covers the body and legs. One of the most popular and striking orange Neocaridina varieties, the Sunkist has been a hobby staple for years.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eSunkist Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51041728561463,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":7.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-sunkist-neocaridina-shrimp-43140765090103.png?v=1778253329"},{"product_id":"red-taiwan-bee-caridina-shrimp-mix","title":"Red Taiwan Bee Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Taiwan Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Taiwan Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) is a Taiwan Bee variety displaying vivid red coloration with white markings — Taiwan Bee shrimp are descended from crosses between Crystal Reds and other Caridina lines, producing bolder, more solid color expression than the original Crystal patterns. Red Taiwan Bee shrimp display a particularly vivid, saturated red.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Taiwan Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49091170369847,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":12.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"black-pinto-caridina-shrimp","title":"Black Pinto Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Pinto Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Pinto Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) displays the Pinto pattern in black — bold, irregular black and white patches in an asymmetric distribution that makes each individual unique. The high-contrast black and white Pinto pattern is graphic and striking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Pinto Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49091179905335,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":15.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"blue-jelly-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Blue Jelly Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlue Jelly Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlue Jelly Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a vivid, translucent blue — the 'jelly' quality referring to the semi-transparent, gel-like appearance of the blue coloration. The translucent quality gives the shrimp an almost glowing appearance under good lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlue Jelly Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49091182395703,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-blue-jelly-neocaridina-shrimp-43145270165815.png?v=1778253414"},{"product_id":"black-galaxy-caridina-shrimp","title":"Black Galaxy Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Galaxy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Galaxy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a deep black body with galaxy iridescent speckles scattered across the surface — the scattered metallic points creating a starfield effect against the very dark base color.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Galaxy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49544974270775,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":10.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-black-galaxy-caridina-shrimp-41255983022391.jpg?v=1778253555"},{"product_id":"blue-panda-caridina-shrimp","title":"Blue Panda Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlue Panda Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlue Panda Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) displays the Panda pattern in blue — a bold, graphic distribution of deep blue and white reminiscent of a giant panda's markings. The blue replaces the black of the classic Panda pattern, creating a vivid and unusual color combination.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlue Panda Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49544975647031,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":16.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"ocean-blue-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Ocean Blue Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eOcean Blue Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOcean Blue Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a deep, rich ocean blue — a cooler, deeper blue than the Blue Velvet, with a more purely blue tone that evokes the color of deep ocean water. A striking, deep-toned blue shrimp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eOcean Blue Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49545195323703,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":7.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-ocean-blue-neocaridina-shrimp-43927651123511.png?v=1778253560"},{"product_id":"snowball-neocaridina-shrimp","title":"Snowball Neocaridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eSnowball Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSnowball Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a clean, opaque white coloration — named for the round, white egg clutches that berried females carry, which resemble a perfectly round snowball. The white body coloration and white eggs make berried Snowball females particularly striking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAll \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e color varieties are color-selected lines of a single species native to Taiwan. The wild form is a drab olive-brown, barely resembling its descendants. The extraordinary palette of colors available today is the result of decades of selective breeding by dedicated hobbyists and commercial breeders — primarily in Taiwan — who isolated and intensified natural color mutations across hundreds of generations. When you keep a Neocaridina shrimp, you are keeping one of the most extensively bred freshwater invertebrates in the world.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on mixing colors:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina color varieties will interbreed freely if kept together. While the first generation of crosses often produces attractive offspring, subsequent generations revert toward the ancestral wild-type — a muddy brown-olive color that is the genetic baseline of the species. For best results and to maintain color quality, keep each color variety in its own aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are among the hardiest and most beginner-friendly invertebrates available. They adapt well to a range of water parameters, breed readily in freshwater, and are constantly active — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm and algae from morning to night. A healthy colony in a mature planted aquarium is one of the most rewarding and visually dynamic setups in the freshwater hobby. Females carrying eggs are called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — the cluster of eggs visible beneath the tail resembles a bunch of small berries and is one of the most satisfying sights in shrimp keeping.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Neocaridina shrimp are sensitive to sudden parameter changes — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always match temperature precisely before adding new water. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple — a comprehensive, nutritionally balanced shrimp food that supports color, health, and breeding condition. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally important — sprinkled lightly on the water surface, it builds the biofilm that Neocaridina graze on constantly and that newborn shrimp depend on as their primary food source.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix) and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e 2–3 times per week. Both provide enrichment and variety that keeps shrimp active and foraging enthusiastically.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are essential supplements — molting requires significant calcium and mineral resources, and shrimp that lack minerals will struggle with failed molts. Add these regularly, especially in softer water.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e provides the fine particle nutrition that juveniles need in their first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eNeocaridina shrimp are peaceful and safe with most small, non-predatory fish — Ember Tetras, small rasboras, Corydoras, Otocinclus, and similar tankmates work well. Avoid any fish large enough to eat a shrimp. Be cautious with bettas — some individuals ignore shrimp entirely while others actively hunt them. Shrimp-only or invertebrate-focused aquariums give the best breeding results and the most visible shrimp behavior. Dense planting provides cover that makes shrimp feel secure and dramatically increases the amount of time they spend in the open.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — called a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable parameters. Consistent water parameters and regular mineral supplementation are the most effective prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eSnowball Neocaridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm) — females larger\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20–30+ thrive and breed readily\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in shrimp-only setups; 2–3 per gallon in community tanks\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e8–12 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e2–6 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–250\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred color selection of wild Taiwanese \u003cem\u003eNeocaridina davidi\u003c\/em\u003e)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor Mixing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not mix Neocaridina color varieties — offspring revert to wild-type brown\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFailed Molts:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sign of mineral deficiency or unstable parameters\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Berried females carry eggs 3–4 weeks; shrimplets need Bacter AE biofilm and Shrimp Baby Food\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid fish large enough to eat shrimp; bettas vary by individual\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49551455813943,"sku":"Neocaridina davidi","price":8.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-snowball-neocaridina-shrimp-43140764795191.png?v=1778253558"},{"product_id":"red-galaxy-caridina-shrimp","title":"Red Galaxy Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Galaxy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Galaxy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) combines vivid red with galaxy-pattern iridescent speckles across the body — the scattered metallic points creating a starfield-like pattern over the red base. A complex and visually layered Caridina.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Galaxy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49551474557239,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":20.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/collections\/IMG_1771_with_credit-small.png?v=1737162183","url":"https:\/\/cuboidstore.com\/collections\/shrimp.oembed?page=2","provider":"Cuboid Aquatics LLC","version":"1.0","type":"link"}