{"title":"Cardina Shrimp","description":"","products":[{"product_id":"amano-shrimp","title":"Amano Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eAmano Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAmano Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina multidentata\u003c\/em\u003e) is the single most famous algae-eating shrimp in the aquarium hobby. Made famous by legendary aquascaper Takashi Amano, who used them by the hundreds to keep his planted tanks immaculate, this species has become the go-to algae control tool for planted aquariums worldwide. Translucent grey-blue with a broken line of small reddish-brown dots along the sides, Amano Shrimp grow noticeably larger than Neocaridina or Caridina dwarf shrimp — reaching up to 2 inches, making them one of the largest true shrimp regularly kept in freshwater tanks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAmano Shrimp are primarily \u003cstrong\u003ealgae and biofilm grazers\u003c\/strong\u003e rather than general scavengers — they are famous for eating types of algae that almost nothing else in the hobby will touch, including hair algae, thread algae, and beard algae. A group of Amanos working a planted tank is one of the most effective natural algae control methods available, and this is the primary reason hobbyists keep them. Unlike Neocaridina and Caridina shrimp, Amanos cannot reproduce in freshwater — their larvae require brackish or saltwater to develop, so there is zero risk of an Amano population explosion in a home aquarium. Every Amano Shrimp sold in the hobby is either wild-caught or raised through a brackish-water breeding process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e Amano Shrimp are algae feeders first — in a tank with healthy algae and biofilm growth, they will spend most of their day grazing and need very little supplemental feeding. Use food as a \u003cstrong\u003esupplement, not a primary food source\u003c\/strong\u003e. When algae is scarce, or to keep a group well-conditioned, offer \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e a few times per week, and a light dusting of \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e to help build biofilm on surfaces. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e support healthy molting and should be offered periodically, especially in softer water.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eAmano Shrimp are completely peaceful and make excellent additions to community planted tanks, shrimp colonies, and aquascapes of all kinds. They are more tolerant of a range of water parameters than Caridina cf. cantonensis varieties (like Crystal Reds or Taiwan Bees), making them a forgiving, low-maintenance choice for hobbyists who want effective algae control without the sensitivity of fancier shrimp. They will not interbreed with Neocaridina or Caridina dwarf shrimp and will not eat shrimp fry, so they are safe to keep alongside breeding colonies. Avoid housing them with aggressive or large fish that may see them as food, and use caution with bettas, as individual temperament varies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for several hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; Amanos will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable water parameters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eAmano Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish and other dwarf shrimp\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUp to 2 inches (5 cm) — among the largest shrimp commonly kept in freshwater\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6 minimum — Amanos are social and do best in groups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1 per 2–3 gallons for effective algae control\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–78°F (21–26°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–14 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–10 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–300\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePrimary Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAlgae and biofilm (natural grazing) — the primary food source\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplemental Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eJapan, Taiwan, and the Korean Peninsula\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cannot reproduce in freshwater — larvae require brackish water, so no population control needed\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Best known for eating hair, thread, and beard algae that most other species ignore\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Will not eat shrimp fry — safe with breeding Neocaridina\/Caridina colonies\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Medium","offer_id":50873572819255,"sku":"Caridina multidentata","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Jumbo","offer_id":50873572852023,"sku":"Caridina multidentata","price":8.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-medium-amano-shrimp-37725136978231.jpg?v=1778253136"},{"product_id":"black-bee-caridina-shrimp","title":"Black Bee Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) displays alternating black and white bee banding — the black counterpart to the Red Bee, with deep black replacing the red zones against clean white banding. One of the most classic Caridina patterns.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011247845687,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":10.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"black-crystal-caridina-shrimp","title":"Black Crystal Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) is the black-bodied counterpart to the Crystal Red — the same red zones replaced with deep black while the white banding remains clean and well-defined. Black Crystal shrimp carry the same grading system (C through SSS) based on the proportion and quality of white coverage. The high-contrast black and white pattern is striking and elegant.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51041745338679,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":9.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-single-black-crystal-caridina-shrimp-43140787405111.png?v=1778253167"},{"product_id":"black-tiger-fancy-caridina-shrimp","title":"Black Tiger Fancy Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Tiger Fancy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Tiger Fancy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) is an enhanced Black Tiger — the 'Fancy' designation indicating above-average color intensity, banding definition, or additional color elements beyond the standard black and clear tiger pattern.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Tiger Fancy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.25 inches (2.5–3 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.0\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–8 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1–4 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStreams of Hong Kong and southern China\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed recommended\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248107831,"sku":"Caridina Mariae","price":13.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-black-tiger-fancy-cardina-shrimp-43690943021367.png?v=1778253151"},{"product_id":"hinomaru-caridina-shrimp","title":"Hinomaru Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eHinomaru Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHinomaru Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) takes its name from the Japanese flag — \u003cem\u003eHinomaru\u003c\/em\u003e meaning 'circle of the sun.' The pattern features a distinctive red circle or dot marking on an otherwise white body, directly referencing the red circle on the Japanese national flag. A clean, graphic, and culturally resonant pattern.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eHinomaru Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248271671,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":14.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"pure-black-crystal-caridina-shrimp","title":"Pure Black Crystal Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003ePure Black Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePure Black Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) is a selectively refined Black Crystal line bred for clarity and purity of the black and white banding — clean color separation and consistent pattern quality across the line. The 'Pure' designation indicates a higher standard of pattern consistency.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003ePure Black Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248337207,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":12.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-pure-black-crystal-cardina-shrimp-41090530541879.png?v=1778253169"},{"product_id":"pure-red-crystal-caridina-shrimp","title":"Pure Red Crystal Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003ePure Red Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePure Red Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) represents a selectively refined line of Crystal Red — bred specifically for clarity and purity of the red and white banding, with well-defined, clean color separation between the red and white zones. The 'Pure' designation indicates a higher standard of pattern consistency within the line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003ePure Red Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248369975,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":12.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-pure-red-crystal-caridina-shrimp-41090583003447.jpg?v=1778253154"},{"product_id":"red-bee-caridina-shrimp","title":"Red Bee Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) displays the classic red and white bee banding — alternating red and white stripes running across the body in a clean, graphic pattern. A foundational Caridina pattern closely related to the Crystal Red line.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48011248566583,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":10.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"red-crystal-caridina-shrimp","title":"Red Crystal Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) is one of the foundational varieties of the Caridina hobby — descended from the original Crystal Red mutation discovered by Hisayasu Suzuki in 1996. The classic red and white banded pattern is graded from C (least white) through B, A, S, SS, to SSS (most white). Red Crystal shrimp remain one of the most elegant and sought-after patterns in the hobby.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Crystal Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51041743044919,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":8.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-single-red-crystal-cardina-shrimp-43141448761655.png?v=1778253152"},{"product_id":"blue-bolt-caridina-shrimp","title":"Blue Bolt Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlue Bolt Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlue Bolt Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) is one of the most striking Caridina available — a vivid, deep blue to blue-black body with clean white markings. The Blue Bolt is a Taiwan Bee variety selected for intense blue coloration, and high-grade specimens display a remarkable electric blue that is unlike any other freshwater shrimp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlue Bolt Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48909669826871,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":12.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"red-pinto-caridina-shrimp","title":"Red Pinto Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Pinto Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Pinto Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) displays the Pinto pattern in red — an irregular, high-contrast distribution of red and white in which the white forms large, bold patches rather than the regular banding of Crystal shrimp. The Pinto pattern is named for the pinto horse's irregular two-tone coat. No two Pinto shrimp are identical.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Pinto Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48909685686583,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":12.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"red-taiwan-bee-caridina-shrimp-mix","title":"Red Taiwan Bee Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Taiwan Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Taiwan Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) is a Taiwan Bee variety displaying vivid red coloration with white markings — Taiwan Bee shrimp are descended from crosses between Crystal Reds and other Caridina lines, producing bolder, more solid color expression than the original Crystal patterns. Red Taiwan Bee shrimp display a particularly vivid, saturated red.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Taiwan Bee Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49091170369847,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":12.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"black-pinto-caridina-shrimp","title":"Black Pinto Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Pinto Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Pinto Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina\u003c\/em\u003e sp.) displays the Pinto pattern in black — bold, irregular black and white patches in an asymmetric distribution that makes each individual unique. The high-contrast black and white Pinto pattern is graphic and striking.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Pinto Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49091179905335,"sku":"Caridina sp","price":15.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"black-galaxy-caridina-shrimp","title":"Black Galaxy Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Galaxy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Galaxy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a deep black body with galaxy iridescent speckles scattered across the surface — the scattered metallic points creating a starfield effect against the very dark base color.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Galaxy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49544974270775,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":10.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-black-galaxy-caridina-shrimp-41255983022391.jpg?v=1778253555"},{"product_id":"blue-panda-caridina-shrimp","title":"Blue Panda Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlue Panda Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlue Panda Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) displays the Panda pattern in blue — a bold, graphic distribution of deep blue and white reminiscent of a giant panda's markings. The blue replaces the black of the classic Panda pattern, creating a vivid and unusual color combination.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlue Panda Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49544975647031,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":16.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"red-galaxy-caridina-shrimp","title":"Red Galaxy Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Galaxy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Galaxy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) combines vivid red with galaxy-pattern iridescent speckles across the body — the scattered metallic points creating a starfield-like pattern over the red base. A complex and visually layered Caridina.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Galaxy Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49551474557239,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":20.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"calceo-caridina-shrimp","title":"Calceo Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eCalceo Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCalceo Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) takes its name from the Latin word for shoe — \u003cem\u003ecalceus\u003c\/em\u003e — referencing the distinctive shoe or slipper-like white marking pattern on the body. The Calceo displays a unique white marking distribution that sets it apart from other Caridina pattern categories.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eCalceo Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49551477604663,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":21.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"fancy-red-tiger-caridina-shrimp","title":"Fancy Red Tiger Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eFancy Red Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFancy Red Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) is an enhanced Red Tiger expression — the 'Fancy' designation indicating particularly vivid red coloration, well-defined banding, or additional color complexity beyond the standard Red Tiger pattern.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eFancy Red Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.25 inches (2.5–3 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.0\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–8 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1–4 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStreams of Hong Kong and southern China\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed recommended\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49551479177527,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":13.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-fancy-red-tiger-caridina-shrimp-43690750673207.png?v=1778253562"},{"product_id":"super-crystal-red-santa-caridina-shrimp","title":"Super Crystal Red Santa Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eSuper Crystal Red Santa Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSuper Crystal Red Santa Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) is a premium-grade Santa pattern — the 'Super Crystal' designation indicating exceptional clarity of the red and white pattern, bold color separation, and above-average overall quality. A high-grade collector's shrimp.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eSuper Crystal Red Santa Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49644563333431,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":26.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"red-galaxy-fishbone-caridina-shrimp","title":"Red Galaxy Fishbone Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Galaxy Fishbone Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Galaxy Fishbone Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) combines the Fishbone pattern — a distinctive spine-like white marking running down the dorsal line with lateral branches resembling a fishbone — with vivid red base coloration and galaxy iridescent speckles. A complex, layered pattern on one of the most elaborately marked Caridina available.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Galaxy Fishbone Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Single","offer_id":51136220954935,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":10.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"5pk","offer_id":51136220987703,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":50.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-single-red-galaxy-fishbone-caridina-shrimp-43141439422775.png?v=1778253986"},{"product_id":"yellow-boa-caridina-shrimp","title":"Yellow Boa Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eYellow Boa Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eYellow Boa Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) displays the Boa pattern in yellow — the sinuous, snake-like color distribution in vivid yellow. The yellow Boa is bright and unusual, standing out among the predominantly red and black Caridina lineup.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eYellow Boa Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Single","offer_id":51041756119351,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":13.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"5pk","offer_id":51041756152119,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":65.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-single-yellow-boa-caridina-shrimp-41255985676599.jpg?v=1778253985"},{"product_id":"extreme-blue-bolt-caridina-shrimp","title":"Extreme Blue Bolt Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eExtreme Blue Bolt Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eExtreme Blue Bolt Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) represents the highest grade of Blue Bolt — selected for maximum color intensity and white coverage. The 'Extreme' designation indicates exceptional blue saturation and pattern quality, producing some of the most vivid blue freshwater invertebrates available.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eExtreme Blue Bolt Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Single","offer_id":51041750810935,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":13.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-single-extreme-blue-bolt-caridina-shrimp-43141434605879.png?v=1778253988"},{"product_id":"blue-shadow-panda-caridina-shrimp","title":"Blue Shadow Panda Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlue Shadow Panda Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlue Shadow Panda Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) is a darker variation of the Blue Panda — the blue shifting toward a deeper, more shadowed tone with the characteristic Panda white markings. The shadow quality gives the blue a deeper, more dramatic appearance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlue Shadow Panda Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Single","offer_id":51041746911543,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":13.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"5pk","offer_id":51041746944311,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":65.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-single-blue-shadow-panda-caridina-shrimp-43140770988343.png?v=1778253994"},{"product_id":"orange-yellow-boa-caridina-shrimp","title":"Orange\/Yellow Boa Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eOrange\/Yellow Boa Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrange\/Yellow Boa Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) displays the Boa pattern — a snake-like, sinuous color distribution across the body — in warm orange and yellow tones. The Boa pattern's irregular, flowing color arrangement in warm tones creates a uniquely warm-toned Caridina.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eOrange\/Yellow Boa Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":50630274777399,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":13.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-orange-yellow-boa-caridina-shrimp-43145216557367.png?v=1778254006"},{"product_id":"red-wine-caridina-shrimp","title":"Red Wine Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Wine Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Wine Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a deep, rich red to burgundy-red — a darker, more wine-toned red than standard Taiwan Bee reds, with a depth of color that earns the wine comparison. The deep red is particularly striking against white markings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Wine Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51041748975927,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":15.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-single-red-wine-caridina-shrimp-43141444305207.png?v=1778254006"},{"product_id":"red-santa-caridina-shrimp","title":"Red Santa Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Santa Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Santa Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) takes its festive name from the red and white pattern distribution — a Taiwan Bee variation with red and white coloring arranged in a particularly bold, high-contrast distribution that evokes the classic red-and-white color combination. A striking and cheerful Caridina pattern.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Santa Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":50630277333303,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":11.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"snow-white-caridina-shrimp","title":"Snow White Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eSnow White Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSnow White Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) displays a clean, near-opaque white — a high-white expression selected for maximum white coverage across the entire body with minimal transparent or colored areas. A striking, clean all-white Caridina.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eSnow White Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Single","offer_id":51136316473655,"sku":"Caridina cf. cantonensis","price":13.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"5pk","offer_id":51136316506423,"sku":"Caridina cf. cantonensis","price":65.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-single-snow-white-cardina-shrimp-43141451219255.png?v=1778254006"},{"product_id":"black-galaxy-fishbone-caridina-shrimp","title":"Black Galaxy Fishbone Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eBlack Galaxy Fishbone Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBlack Galaxy Fishbone Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) displays the Fishbone pattern in black — the spine-like dorsal marking and lateral branches in white against a deep black body, with galaxy iridescent speckles. The black and white fishbone pattern is particularly graphic and well-defined against the dark base.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eBlack Galaxy Fishbone Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51041752580407,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":10.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-black-galaxy-fishbone-caridina-shrimp-43140768727351.png?v=1778254006"},{"product_id":"purple-metallic-tiger-caridina-shrimp","title":"Purple Metallic Tiger Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003ePurple Metallic Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePurple Metallic Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) displays metallic purple iridescence with tiger banding — the purple metallic quality catching light with a distinctive sheen while the tiger pattern adds structural complexity to the coloration. One of the more unusual and striking Tiger variants.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003ePurple Metallic Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.25 inches (2.5–3 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.0\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–8 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1–4 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStreams of Hong Kong and southern China\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed recommended\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":50709739438391,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":13.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"orange-eye-blue-tiger-caridina-shrimp","title":"Orange Eye Blue Tiger Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eOrange Eye Blue Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrange Eye Blue Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) is a striking Tiger variant featuring vivid orange eyes — one of the most immediately distinctive features in the Caridina hobby — combined with blue body coloration and tiger banding. The combination of the brilliant orange eyes and blue body is extraordinary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eOrange Eye Blue Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.25 inches (2.5–3 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.0\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–8 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1–4 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStreams of Hong Kong and southern China\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed recommended\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":50870067560759,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":19.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"shadow-mosura-caridina-shrimp","title":"Shadow Mosura Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eShadow Mosura Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eShadow Mosura Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) is a dark, shadowy variation of the Mosura pattern — the body color shifting toward very dark tones with the characteristic Mosura white head and tail, creating a dramatic, high-contrast shadow effect.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eShadow Mosura Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51769973375287,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":13.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-shadow-mosura-caridina-shrimp-43690931126583.png?v=1778254462"},{"product_id":"extreme-red-king-kong-caridina-shrimp","title":"Extreme Red King Kong Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eExtreme Red King Kong Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eExtreme Red King Kong Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) is a King Kong pattern Caridina in vivid red — the King Kong pattern being a high-white expression where the white coverage is dominant and the color is concentrated in specific areas. The 'Extreme' grade indicates exceptional color intensity and pattern quality.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eExtreme Red King Kong Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.5 inches (2.5–4 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.0–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–2 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMountain streams of southern China — selectively bred in captivity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed — buffers pH and maintains low KH\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade established patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended for best results\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51769973965111,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":13.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/cuboid-nature-aquarium-shrimp-default-title-extreme-red-king-kong-caridina-shrimp-43690927030583.png?v=1778254458"},{"product_id":"orange-eye-red-devil-caridina-shrimp","title":"Orange Eye Red Devil Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eOrange Eye Red Devil Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOrange Eye Red Devil Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) combines the vivid orange eyes that make Orange Eye variants so striking with deep red 'Red Devil' body coloration. The intense orange eyes against the vivid red body create one of the most dramatic Caridina presentations available.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eOrange Eye Red Devil Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.25 inches (2.5–3 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.0\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–8 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1–4 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStreams of Hong Kong and southern China\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed recommended\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51769979994423,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":25.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"white-amano-shrimp","title":"White Amano Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eWhite Amano Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWhite Amano Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina multidentata\u003c\/em\u003e) is a pale, whitish color variant of the standard Amano Shrimp — the same species, behavior, and care requirements, with a softer, more translucent-white coloration instead of the typical grey-blue body and reddish dot pattern. Like the regular Amano, this is the most famous algae-eating shrimp in the hobby, made famous by aquascaper Takashi Amano for its unmatched ability to clean up algae in planted tanks. White Amanos grow just as large as standard Amanos, reaching up to 2 inches — among the largest true shrimp regularly kept in freshwater aquariums.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhite Amanos are primarily \u003cstrong\u003ealgae and biofilm grazers\u003c\/strong\u003e rather than general scavengers, just like their standard-colored counterparts — they are well known for eating hair algae, thread algae, and beard algae that few other species in the hobby will touch. A group of White Amanos working a planted tank provides the same effective, natural algae control as the standard variety, with the added visual interest of their lighter coloration standing out against dark substrates and hardscape. Like all Amano Shrimp, this variety cannot reproduce in freshwater — larvae require brackish or saltwater to develop, so there is zero risk of a population explosion in a home aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e Like all Amano Shrimp, White Amanos are algae feeders first — in a tank with healthy algae and biofilm growth, they will spend most of their day grazing and need very little supplemental feeding. Use food as a \u003cstrong\u003esupplement, not a primary food source\u003c\/strong\u003e. When algae is scarce, or to keep a group well-conditioned, offer \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e a few times per week, and a light dusting of \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e to help build biofilm on surfaces. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e support healthy molting and should be offered periodically, especially in softer water.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhite Amanos are completely peaceful and make excellent additions to community planted tanks, shrimp colonies, and aquascapes of all kinds. They are more tolerant of a range of water parameters than Caridina cf. cantonensis varieties (like Crystal Reds or Taiwan Bees), making them a forgiving, low-maintenance choice for hobbyists who want effective algae control without the sensitivity of fancier shrimp. They will not interbreed with Neocaridina or Caridina dwarf shrimp and will not eat shrimp fry, so they are safe to keep alongside breeding colonies. Avoid housing them with aggressive or large fish that may see them as food, and use caution with bettas, as individual temperament varies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for several hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; White Amanos will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable water parameters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eWhite Amano Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish and other dwarf shrimp\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUp to 2 inches (5 cm) — among the largest shrimp commonly kept in freshwater\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6 minimum — Amanos are social and do best in groups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1 per 2–3 gallons for effective algae control\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–78°F (21–26°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–14 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–10 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–300\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePrimary Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAlgae and biofilm (natural grazing) — the primary food source\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplemental Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eJapan, Taiwan, and the Korean Peninsula (color variant of standard Amano Shrimp)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor:\u003c\/strong\u003e Same species as standard Amano Shrimp — pale\/whitish color variant\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cannot reproduce in freshwater — larvae require brackish water, so no population control needed\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Best known for eating hair, thread, and beard algae that most other species ignore\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Will not eat shrimp fry — safe with breeding Neocaridina\/Caridina colonies\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51950883111223,"sku":"Caridina multidentata","price":12.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"sun-orange-amano-shrimp","title":"Sun Orange Amano Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eSun Orange Amano Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSun Orange Amano Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina multidentata\u003c\/em\u003e) is a selectively bred color variant of the classic Amano Shrimp, featuring a warm, vivid orange-gold body in place of the translucent grey-blue of the standard form. The bright, consistent coloration makes this variant stand out dramatically against green plants and dark substrate while retaining every bit of the legendary algae-eating ability that made Amano Shrimp famous in the first place. Like the standard Amano, this variant grows to a substantial 2 inches, making it one of the largest true shrimp regularly kept in freshwater tanks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSun Orange Amanos are primarily \u003cstrong\u003ealgae and biofilm grazers\u003c\/strong\u003e rather than general scavengers, just like their standard-colored counterparts — they are well known for eating hair algae, thread algae, and beard algae that few other species in the hobby will touch. A group of Sun Orange Amanos working a planted tank provides the same effective, natural algae control as the wild-type coloration, with the added visual interest of their vivid orange-gold tone catching the eye against dark hardscape. Like all Amano Shrimp, this variety cannot reproduce in freshwater — larvae require brackish or saltwater to develop, so there is zero risk of a population explosion in a home aquarium. Color intensity in Sun Orange Amanos can vary somewhat from individual to individual and may shift slightly with diet, substrate, and lighting, but the orange-gold tone is a genetic trait of the variant rather than a temporary condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e Like all Amano Shrimp, Sun Orange Amanos are algae feeders first — in a tank with healthy algae and biofilm growth, they will spend most of their day grazing and need very little supplemental feeding. Use food as a \u003cstrong\u003esupplement, not a primary food source\u003c\/strong\u003e. When algae is scarce, or to keep a group well-conditioned, offer \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e a few times per week, and a light dusting of \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e to help build biofilm on surfaces. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e support healthy molting and should be offered periodically, especially in softer water.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSun Orange Amanos are completely peaceful and make excellent additions to community planted tanks, shrimp colonies, and aquascapes of all kinds. They are more tolerant of a range of water parameters than Caridina cf. cantonensis varieties (like Crystal Reds or Taiwan Bees), making them a forgiving, low-maintenance choice for hobbyists who want effective algae control and standout color without the sensitivity of fancier shrimp. They will not interbreed with Neocaridina or Caridina dwarf shrimp and will not eat shrimp fry, so they are safe to keep alongside breeding colonies. Avoid housing them with aggressive or large fish that may see them as food, and use caution with bettas, as individual temperament varies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for several hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; Sun Orange Amanos will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable water parameters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eSun Orange Amano Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish and other dwarf shrimp\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUp to 2 inches (5 cm) — among the largest shrimp commonly kept in freshwater\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6 minimum — Amanos are social and do best in groups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1 per 2–3 gallons for effective algae control\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–78°F (21–26°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–14 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–10 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–300\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePrimary Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAlgae and biofilm (natural grazing) — the primary food source\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplemental Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eJapan, Taiwan, and the Korean Peninsula (color variant of standard Amano Shrimp)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor:\u003c\/strong\u003e Selectively bred orange-gold color variant of standard Amano Shrimp; intensity can vary by individual and conditions\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cannot reproduce in freshwater — larvae require brackish water, so no population control needed\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Best known for eating hair, thread, and beard algae that most other species ignore\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Will not eat shrimp fry — safe with breeding Neocaridina\/Caridina colonies\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":52506762936631,"sku":"Caridina multidentata","price":10.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"pinocchio-shrimp","title":"Pinocchio Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003ePinocchio Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePinocchio Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina gracilirostris\u003c\/em\u003e) is one of the most unusual-looking shrimp in the hobby — a nearly transparent body traced with fine red and yellow striping, topped off by a long, needle-like red rostrum extending out past the head. That exaggerated \"nose\" is exactly where the common name comes from, and it's also sold under the names Pinokio Shrimp, Red Nose Shrimp, Rudolph Shrimp, and Rhino Shrimp. The rostrum can regenerate if broken, and males tend to run larger and more colorful than females — the reverse of most shrimp species.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Brackish Water Required:\u003c\/strong\u003e This is \u003cstrong\u003enot\u003c\/strong\u003e a freshwater shrimp, despite frequently being sold as one. Pinocchio Shrimp are native to brackish estuaries and coastal streams and need salt added to the aquarium to thrive long-term — a specific gravity around 1.005–1.010 (roughly one tablespoon of marine salt mix per gallon as a starting point, adjusted to hit that target with a hydrometer or refractometer). Shrimp kept in plain freshwater may survive short-term but will decline over time. When topping off evaporation, always add plain fresh water, never brackish water — salt does not evaporate, so topping off with saltwater will steadily raise the tank's salinity over time.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003ePinocchio Shrimp come from estuaries, coastal streams, and slightly saline freshwater rivers across the Indo-Pacific, including Thailand, the Philippines, and parts of India — environments where fresh and salt water mix. In the wild they graze constantly over submerged vegetation, picking biofilm and algae off every surface. In the aquarium they're surprisingly active swimmers for a shrimp, darting through the water column while feeding rather than just walking along surfaces the way most dwarf shrimp do — one of the more entertaining behaviors to watch in a nano tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eA 10-gallon or larger brackish aquarium is a safe starting point, with plenty of cover in the form of shrimp flats, driftwood, and decorations. Live plants are more limited in a brackish setup — Java Fern (\u003cem\u003eMicrosorum pteropus\u003c\/em\u003e) is one of the few true aquatic plants that tolerates low-end brackish conditions well. Keep the tank cycled and stable; ammonia and nitrite are just as dangerous in brackish water as in freshwater, and nitrate should be kept low with regular water changes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Breeding Is Difficult:\u003c\/strong\u003e Pinocchio Shrimp pass through a free-swimming larval stage, similar to Amano Shrimp, rather than hatching as miniature adults. The larvae need brackish water and a steady supply of microscopic food to survive — something a typical home aquarium doesn't naturally provide. Hobbyists attempting to breed them usually raise larvae in \"green water\" cultures or dose commercial larval foods. This is not a shrimp that will casually multiply in a community tank the way Neocaridina do — treat any breeding success as a bonus, not an expectation.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e Pinocchio Shrimp are unfussy omnivores that graze biofilm and algae throughout the day, but that grazing alone won't sustain them — supplement with \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e as a staple, plus occasional frozen foods (baby brine shrimp, daphnia) and blanched vegetables like zucchini or spinach for variety. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e sprinkled lightly on the surface helps maintain the biofilm layer they rely on between feedings.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eTankmate options are limited by the brackish requirement — most freshwater fish and invertebrates simply won't tolerate the salinity. Stick to other brackish-tolerant species: Clithon-genus Nerite snails handle low-end brackish water well, as do some brackish-adapted ghost shrimp. The tiny Bumblebee Goby is sometimes kept alongside them, but use caution — it's a small predator and given the chance may pick off very young shrimp. Avoid any fish large enough to see a 1.5–2 inch shrimp as a meal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for 12–24 hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is essentially defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; shrimp will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. Stable salinity and temperature are especially important around molting — fluctuations are a common cause of failed molts in brackish species.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003ePinocchio Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — brackish water requirement, not a beginner freshwater shrimp\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful, active — safe with brackish-tolerant tankmates only\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.5–2 inches (4–5 cm) — males larger and more colorful than females\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6 minimum — more encouraged; social and most visible in numbers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eMinimum Tank Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 gallons\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e72–80°F (22–27°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e7.0–8.0\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSalinity\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBrackish — specific gravity 1.005–1.010 (do not keep in plain freshwater long-term)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; biofilm\/algae grazing; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eFrozen baby brine shrimp; frozen daphnia; blanched zucchini or spinach\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIndo-Pacific brackish estuaries and coastal streams (Thailand, Philippines, India)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e True brackish requirement, not optional — top off with fresh water only, never brackish\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Passes through a free-swimming larval stage requiring brackish water and microscopic food — difficult in a home aquarium\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003ePlants:\u003c\/strong\u003e Most aquatic plants won't tolerate brackish conditions — Java Fern is a reliable option\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Limited to brackish-tolerant species only; avoid predatory fish\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":52696329879863,"sku":"Caridina gracilirostris","price":6.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}]},{"product_id":"mosura-crystal-red-caridina-shrimp-sss","title":"Mosura Crystal Red Caridina Shrimp SSS","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #c8e6c9; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eMosura Crystal Red Caridina Shrimp SSS\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMosura Crystal Red Caridina Shrimp SSS\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) represents the pinnacle of Crystal Red Shrimp selective breeding. SSS is the highest grade in the CRS grading system — above S and SS — characterized by the most solid, opaque red banding, deep white coloration, and near-perfect symmetry of pattern. Mosura refers to a specific pattern expression within SSS where white dominates so completely that the head region is almost entirely white, with the red appearing as a narrow band or concentrated patches — sometimes called the \"no-entry\" or \"rising sun\" pattern by Japanese breeders who coined the term.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCrystal Red Shrimp were originally developed from a spontaneous red mutation in \u003cem\u003eCaridina cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e (Bee Shrimp) by Japanese breeder Hisayasu Suzuki in the early 1990s. The mutation was isolated and intensified over decades to produce the vivid red and white banding seen today. The grading system — C, B, A, S, SS, SSS — reflects the increasing intensity and coverage of the white coloration: at SSS grade, the white is fully opaque and the red bands are deep and clearly defined. Mosura pattern shrimp, the rarest expression, are always at least SSS grade and carry premium value even among SSS specimens.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Caridina require soft, acidic water — this is non-negotiable.\u003c\/strong\u003e Unlike Neocaridina, Caridina shrimp cannot adapt to harder or more alkaline water. They must be kept in soft, low-TDS, acidic conditions — typically achieved using RO water remineralized with a Caridina-specific mineral supplement such as \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH\/KH+\u003c\/strong\u003e for Bee Shrimp. Tap water is rarely suitable without treatment.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eActive substrate (ADA Amazonia, Fluval Stratum, or equivalent) is strongly recommended — it buffers pH downward and maintains the acidic conditions Caridina require while providing surface area for beneficial biofilm. Plan for substrate replacement every 12–24 months as buffering capacity is exhausted.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate for at least 60–90 minutes. Caridina are more sensitive than Neocaridina and require especially slow acclimation. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is the recommended staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is essential for biofilm and shrimplet nutrition. Supplement with \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eShrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e. Mineral supplementation should be via a Caridina-specific product — do NOT use Neocaridina mineral supplements in Caridina tanks as GH requirements differ. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e for juveniles.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eDo not mix Mosura Crystal Red Shrimp with Neocaridina or other Caridina color lines — breeding between groups degrades both lines. Mosura and standard CRS can be kept together but their offspring will be variable. For purest results, keep Mosura separately.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eMosura Crystal Red Caridina Shrimp SSS\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdvanced — requires soft, acidic, RO-based water\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — invertebrate-only or nano fish tankmates only\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.2 inches (2.5–3 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ breed more reliably\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e68–74°F (20–23°C) — cool temperatures preferred\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5.8–6.8\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–6 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–1 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–150\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eWater Source\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRO water remineralized with Caridina-specific mineral (e.g. Salty Shrimp GH\/KH+ Bee Shrimp)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSubstrate\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eActive\/buffering substrate strongly recommended (ADA Amazonia, Fluval Stratum)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTaiwan (captive-bred; Caridina cantonensis color selection)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSSS Grade:\u003c\/strong\u003e Highest grade — fully opaque white, deep red banding, high symmetry\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMosura Pattern:\u003c\/strong\u003e White-dominant head with concentrated red; rarest CRS expression\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDo NOT use tap water\u003c\/strong\u003e — RO or equivalent required\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDo not mix\u003c\/strong\u003e with Neocaridina or other Caridina color lines\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":52777581478199,"sku":"Caridina cantonensis","price":8.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}]},{"product_id":"red-amano-shrimp","title":"Red Amano Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Amano Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Amano Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina multidentata\u003c\/em\u003e) is a selectively bred color line of the classic Amano Shrimp — the same species made famous by legendary aquascaper Takashi Amano, who used them by the hundreds to keep his planted tanks immaculate. Where the standard wild-type Amano is translucent grey-blue with a broken line of small reddish-brown dots, this line has been developed to express warm red to orange-red pigmentation across the carapace and abdomen — still translucent, with the color visible through the shell rather than fully opaque. Red Amanos are substantially larger than Neocaridina or Caridina dwarf shrimp, reaching up to 2 inches, and bring the same legendary algae-cleaning power as the standard form with a considerably more colorful look in the tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eLike the standard form, Red Amano Shrimp are primarily \u003cstrong\u003ealgae and biofilm grazers\u003c\/strong\u003e rather than general scavengers — prized for eating types of algae that almost nothing else in the hobby will touch, including hair algae, thread algae, and beard algae. A group of Amanos working a planted tank is one of the most effective natural algae control methods available, and this is the primary reason hobbyists keep them. Amanos cannot reproduce in freshwater — their larvae require brackish or saltwater to develop — so there is zero risk of a population explosion in a home aquarium, and no risk of the color line being diluted by interbreeding either. Every Amano Shrimp sold in the hobby, red line included, is either wild-caught (standard form) or raised through a brackish-water breeding process.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e Red Amano Shrimp are algae feeders first — in a tank with healthy algae and biofilm growth, they will spend most of their day grazing and need very little supplemental feeding. Use food as a \u003cstrong\u003esupplement, not a primary food source\u003c\/strong\u003e. When algae is scarce, or to keep a group well-conditioned (and to help the red coloration show at its best), offer \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e a few times per week, and a light dusting of \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e to help build biofilm on surfaces. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e support healthy molting and should be offered periodically, especially in softer water.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eRed Amano Shrimp are completely peaceful and make excellent additions to community planted tanks, shrimp colonies, and aquascapes of all kinds. They are more tolerant of a range of water parameters than Caridina cf. cantonensis varieties (like Crystal Reds or Taiwan Bees), making them a forgiving, low-maintenance choice for hobbyists who want effective algae control without the sensitivity of fancier shrimp. They will not interbreed with Neocaridina or Caridina dwarf shrimp and will not eat shrimp fry, so they are safe to keep alongside breeding colonies. Avoid housing them with aggressive or large fish that may see them as food, and use caution with bettas, as individual temperament varies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for several hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; Amanos will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable water parameters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Amano Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish and other dwarf shrimp\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUp to 2 inches (5 cm) — among the largest shrimp commonly kept in freshwater\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6 minimum — Amanos are social and do best in groups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1 per 2–3 gallons for effective algae control\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–78°F (21–26°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–14 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–10 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–300\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePrimary Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAlgae and biofilm (natural grazing) — the primary food source\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplemental Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSelectively bred color line — species native to Japan, Taiwan, and the Korean Peninsula\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cannot reproduce in freshwater — larvae require brackish water, so no population control needed and no risk of the color line reverting through interbreeding\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Best known for eating hair, thread, and beard algae that most other species ignore\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Will not eat shrimp fry — safe with breeding Neocaridina\/Caridina colonies\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCurrent Size Offered:\u003c\/strong\u003e Small\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":52912587604279,"sku":"Caridina multidentata","price":12.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"hornet-tiger-caridina-shrimp","title":"Hornet Tiger Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eHornet Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eHornet Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) is a bold black-and-yellow banded variety within the Tiger shrimp complex — alternating jet-black and warm yellow-gold bands wrap the body from head to tail, a pattern that gives the variety its name for its resemblance to the insect. It is one of the most eye-catching banding patterns available in Caridina shrimp, standing out clearly against green planted backgrounds.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line — the Hornet pattern is one of its most striking banded expressions.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eHornet Tiger Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.25 inches (2.5–3 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.0\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–8 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1–4 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStreams of Hong Kong and southern China\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed recommended\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade patterns\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":52912587899191,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":13.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"red-hornet-wasp-caridina-shrimp","title":"Red Hornet Wasp Caridina Shrimp","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eRed Hornet Wasp Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eRed Hornet Wasp Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e) is a vivid red-toned expression of the Hornet\/Wasp banding pattern — deep red bands alternate with dark, near-black bands across the body, an intensified red rework of the black-and-yellow Hornet Tiger pattern within the same Tiger shrimp complex. The result is one of the more dramatic red color forms available in Caridina, prized by breeders for how well the red saturates against the dark banding.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe \u003cem\u003eCaridina cf. cantonensis\u003c\/em\u003e complex — which includes Crystal Red and Black, Taiwan Bee, Pinto, Fishbone, Mosura, Shadow Panda, and many other varieties — originates from the mountain streams of southern China. Crystal Red Shrimp were first discovered as a spontaneous red mutation in a Japanese hobbyist's tank in 1996 by Hisayasu Suzuki — a single moment that launched one of the most extensive selective breeding programs in freshwater invertebrate history. From that original mutation, decades of dedicated breeding produced the extraordinary range of patterns and color forms available today, including red-line reworks of established banded patterns like the Hornet\/Wasp. Tiger shrimp (\u003cem\u003eCaridina mariae\u003c\/em\u003e) come from streams of Hong Kong and southern China and represent a related but genetically distinct line.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eA note on interbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina varieties within the same species group will interbreed freely. Crossing established lines — while sometimes done intentionally by advanced breeders — will degrade the patterns of both varieties in subsequent generations. Keep each variety in its own dedicated aquarium, and do not mix with the standard black-and-yellow Hornet Tiger.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp require soft, acidic water maintained with \u003cstrong\u003eRO (reverse osmosis) water\u003c\/strong\u003e as the base — tap water is not suitable as the mineral content is too variable and typically too high. Always start with RO water and remineralize to the correct parameters using \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e, which adds the precise mineral profile Caridina need without raising KH. \u003cstrong\u003eWIO Artist Florabed\u003c\/strong\u003e active substrate is strongly recommended — it naturally buffers pH into the correct range and maintains the low KH that Caridina require, making parameter management significantly easier. Once established, Caridina aquariums are remarkably stable — the key is getting the setup right from the start.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are active, social, and continuously foraging — grazing every surface of the aquarium for biofilm, algae, and food particles throughout the day. A mature, heavily planted aquarium with established biofilm provides an ideal environment. Dense planting, driftwood, and leaf litter give shrimp hiding places that make them feel secure and dramatically increase the amount of time they spend in the open. Females carrying eggs — called \u003cstrong\u003eberried\u003c\/strong\u003e — carry the clutch visibly beneath the tail. Caridina breed more slowly than Neocaridina but a healthy colony in stable parameters will grow steadily.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Water Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp are sensitive to parameter fluctuation — large or frequent water changes are one of the most common causes of stress and failed molts. Keep water changes to \u003cstrong\u003e10% maximum\u003c\/strong\u003e at a time, and only when necessary. Always use RO water remineralized with \u003cstrong\u003eSalty Shrimp GH+\u003c\/strong\u003e to exactly match your tank parameters before adding, and match temperature precisely. When in doubt, do less rather than more — a stable tank with slightly elevated parameters is safer than a tank subjected to frequent changes.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Caridina shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e is our recommended daily staple. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e is equally essential — the biofilm it builds is the primary food source for juvenile shrimp and one of the most important ongoing supplements for any Caridina tank. Sprinkle lightly on the water surface 2–3 times per week.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor treats, rotate \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks\u003c\/strong\u003e (Snow Flakes, Dandelion, Mulberry, Leaves Mix), \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1\u003c\/strong\u003e, and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Protein XP\u003c\/strong\u003e for additional protein support during breeding and molting periods — the added protein also supports color intensity in red lines.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e are critical for successful molting — Caridina are more sensitive to mineral deficiencies than Neocaridina. Add these regularly.\u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003eFor newborn shrimplets, \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eBacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e biofilm are the primary food sources in the first weeks of life.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eCaridina shrimp are best kept in a species-only or invertebrate-only aquarium. Any fish — even small peaceful species — will stress shrimp and reduce breeding. If fish must be included, choose only the smallest and most peaceful options such as Ember Tetras or Otocinclus, ensure the tank is heavily planted, and accept that shrimplet survival will be reduced. Shrimp-only setups produce the healthiest colonies and the most rewarding observation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most critical and vulnerable period for Caridina shrimp. For 12–24 hours after molting the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Never remove molted shells — shrimp consume them to reclaim minerals. A \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — where the shrimp cannot fully exit the old shell — is almost always caused by mineral deficiency or a parameter fluctuation. Stable parameters, regular mineral supplementation, and conservative water change practices are the best prevention.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eRed Hornet Wasp Caridina Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIntermediate — rewarding for prepared keepers\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — species-only or invertebrate-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1.0–1.25 inches (2.5–3 cm)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e10 minimum — colonies of 20+ thrive\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e5–10 per gallon in species-only setups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–76°F (21–24°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.0\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–8 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1–4 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e100–200\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStaple Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTreat \/ Supplement\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Snacks; GlasGarten Shrimp Lollies 4 in 1; GlasGarten Protein XP; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food; GlasGarten Shrimp Baby Food (for juveniles)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eStreams of Hong Kong and southern China\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n  \u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e WIO Artist Florabed recommended\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Base:\u003c\/strong\u003e RO water only — remineralize with Salty Shrimp GH+\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Changes:\u003c\/strong\u003e 10% maximum; match parameters and temperature precisely\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAcclimation:\u003c\/strong\u003e Drip acclimate or tablespoon method — minimum 60 minutes\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells; mineral supplements essential\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eInterbreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Keep varieties separate — crosses degrade patterns; do not mix with standard Hornet Tiger\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Species-only recommended\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":52912587931959,"sku":"Caridina cf cantonensis","price":17.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}]},{"product_id":"sun-red-orange-amano-shrimp","title":"Sun Red\/Orange Amano Shrimp","description":"\u003cstyle\u003e\n  .shrimp-desc { font-family: Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif; font-size:15px;\n    line-height:1.75; color:#1a1a2e; max-width:860px; margin:0 auto; }\n  .shrimp-desc p { margin-bottom:14px; }\n  h2.shrimp-title { font-family:Georgia,serif; font-size:1.7em; font-weight:bold;\n    color:#8b1a1a; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:0.03em;\n    border-bottom:2px solid #c0392b; padding-bottom:8px; margin-bottom:18px; }\n  .tip-box { background:#fdf0f0; border-left:4px solid #c0392b; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .tip-box strong { color:#8b1a1a; }\n  .warn-box { background:#fff3e0; border-left:4px solid #e67e22; border-radius:4px;\n    padding:12px 16px; margin:18px 0; font-size:0.95em; }\n  .warn-box strong { color:#b94600; }\n  .spec-table { width:100%; border-collapse:collapse; margin:20px 0; font-size:0.92em; }\n  .spec-table th { background:#c0392b; color:#fff; text-align:left; padding:8px 12px;\n    font-family:Georgia,serif; font-weight:bold; text-transform:uppercase;\n    letter-spacing:0.04em; font-size:0.85em; }\n  .spec-table td { padding:7px 12px; border-bottom:1px solid #f5d5d5; vertical-align:top; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(odd) td { background:#fdf0f0; }\n  .spec-table tr:nth-child(even) td { background:#ffffff; }\n  .spec-table td:first-child { font-weight:bold; color:#8b1a1a;\n    white-space:nowrap; width:38%; }\n\u003c\/style\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-desc\"\u003e\n\u003ch2 class=\"shrimp-title\"\u003eSun Red\/Orange Amano Shrimp\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"shrimp-body\"\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eSun Red\/Orange Amano Shrimp\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem\u003eCaridina multidentata\u003c\/em\u003e) is a selectively bred color variant of the classic Amano Shrimp, featuring a warm, vivid gold-red body in place of the translucent grey-blue of the standard form. The bright, consistent coloration makes this variant stand out dramatically against green plants and dark substrate while retaining every bit of the legendary algae-eating ability that made Amano Shrimp famous in the first place. Like the standard Amano, this variant grows to a substantial 2 inches, making it one of the largest true shrimp regularly kept in freshwater tanks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Copper Warning:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copper is \u003cstrong\u003efatal\u003c\/strong\u003e to all shrimp — even trace amounts. Never use copper-based medications or treatments in any aquarium housing shrimp. Check all fish medications carefully before use.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSun Red\/Orange Amanos are primarily \u003cstrong\u003ealgae and biofilm grazers\u003c\/strong\u003e rather than general scavengers, just like their standard-colored counterparts — they are well known for eating hair algae, thread algae, and beard algae that few other species in the hobby will touch. A group of Sun Red\/Orange Amanos working a planted tank provides the same effective, natural algae control as the wild-type coloration, with the added visual interest of their vivid orange-gold tone catching the eye against dark hardscape. Like all Amano Shrimp, this variety cannot reproduce in freshwater — larvae require brackish or saltwater to develop, so there is zero risk of a population explosion in a home aquarium. Color intensity in Sun Red\/Orange Amanos can vary somewhat from individual to individual and may shift slightly with diet, substrate, and lighting, but the orange-gold tone is a genetic trait of the variant rather than a temporary condition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"warn-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e⚠ Acclimation — Go Slowly:\u003c\/strong\u003e Shrimp must be acclimated very slowly to a new aquarium — sudden parameter changes are a leading cause of losses on arrival. The preferred method is \u003cstrong\u003edrip acclimation\u003c\/strong\u003e: attach an airline tube with a knot or valve to create a slow drip from the tank into the bag or container, running for at least 60–90 minutes until the water volume has at least doubled. If drip acclimation equipment is not available, add \u003cstrong\u003eone tablespoon of tank water to the bag every 5 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e for at least 45–60 minutes before releasing the shrimp. Never rush this process.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"tip-box\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eFeeding \u0026amp; Care Tip:\u003c\/strong\u003e Like all Amano Shrimp, Sun Red\/Orange Amanos are algae feeders first — in a tank with healthy algae and biofilm growth, they will spend most of their day grazing and need very little supplemental feeding. Use food as a \u003cstrong\u003esupplement, not a primary food source\u003c\/strong\u003e. When algae is scarce, or to keep a group well-conditioned, offer \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2\u003c\/strong\u003e a few times per week, and a light dusting of \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Bacter AE\u003c\/strong\u003e to help build biofilm on surfaces. \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites\u003c\/strong\u003e and \u003cstrong\u003eGlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/strong\u003e support healthy molting and should be offered periodically, especially in softer water.\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eSun Red\/Orange Amanos are completely peaceful and make excellent additions to community planted tanks, shrimp colonies, and aquascapes of all kinds. They are more tolerant of a range of water parameters than Caridina cf. cantonensis varieties (like Crystal Reds or Taiwan Bees), making them a forgiving, low-maintenance choice for hobbyists who want effective algae control and standout color without the sensitivity of fancier shrimp. They will not interbreed with Neocaridina or Caridina dwarf shrimp and will not eat shrimp fry, so they are safe to keep alongside breeding colonies. Avoid housing them with aggressive or large fish that may see them as food, and use caution with bettas, as individual temperament varies.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eMolting is the most vulnerable period in a shrimp's life — for several hours after molting, the new shell is soft and the shrimp is defenseless. Do not remove molted shells from the aquarium; Sun Red\/Orange Amanos will consume them to reclaim the minerals they contain. A shrimp that fails to fully exit its old shell — a \u003cstrong\u003efailed molt\u003c\/strong\u003e — is usually a sign of insufficient minerals or unstable water parameters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ctable class=\"spec-table\"\u003e\n\u003ctbody\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003cth colspan=\"2\"\u003eSun Red\/Orange Amano Shrimp\u003c\/th\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eDifficulty\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eBeginner — Easy\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eTemperament\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePeaceful — safe with small non-predatory fish and other dwarf shrimp\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAdult Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eUp to 2 inches (5 cm) — among the largest shrimp commonly kept in freshwater\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGroup Size\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6 minimum — Amanos are social and do best in groups\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eRecommended Stocking\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e1 per 2–3 gallons for effective algae control\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal Temperature\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e70–78°F (21–26°C)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal pH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e6.5–7.5\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal GH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e4–14 dGH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal KH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e0–10 dKH\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eIdeal TDS\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e150–300\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003ePrimary Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eAlgae and biofilm (natural grazing) — the primary food source\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eSupplemental Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eGlasGarten Shrimp Dinner 2; GlasGarten Bacter AE; GlasGarten Mineral Junkie Bites; GlasGarten Mineral Food\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eOrigin\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eJapan, Taiwan, and the Korean Peninsula (color variant of standard Amano Shrimp)\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003ctr\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003eNotes\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003ctd\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCopper:\u003c\/strong\u003e Fatal — never use copper medications in shrimp tanks\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eColor:\u003c\/strong\u003e Selectively bred orange-gold color variant of standard Amano Shrimp; intensity can vary by individual and conditions\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eBreeding:\u003c\/strong\u003e Cannot reproduce in freshwater — larvae require brackish water, so no population control needed\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Best known for eating hair, thread, and beard algae that most other species ignore\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMolting:\u003c\/strong\u003e Do not remove molted shells — shrimp consume them for minerals\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eTankmates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Will not eat shrimp fry — safe with breeding Neocaridina\/Caridina colonies\u003c\/td\u003e\n\u003c\/tr\u003e\n\u003c\/tbody\u003e\n\u003c\/table\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Cuboid Nature Aquarium","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":52912774152503,"sku":"Caridina multidentata","price":12.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/files\/sunredorangeamanoshrimp.jpg?v=1790608724"}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0804\/8748\/1655\/collections\/IMG_7712.jpg?v=1730761802","url":"https:\/\/cuboidstore.com\/collections\/cardina-shrimp.oembed?page=2","provider":"Cuboid Aquatics LLC","version":"1.0","type":"link"}